More Wales!

16 Jun

Week 2 – St David’s, Pembrokeshire

Friday: It’s hard to believe that such a wonderful week started with such shocking weather. The journey from Liverpool to St David’s, which was meant to take 4 hours, ended up taking 6 because the weather meant the roads were just awful. My journey took me through Bala and Machynlleth (again) before heading down the coast. The rain was absolutely torrential, and as it turned out, resulted in floods for the Machynlleth area! I was so pleased that we had been staying there the weekend before this happened!

I arrived at St David’s around 4pm Shearers’ Loft, which was my base whilst I was staying there, and was absolutely fabulous! The weather wasn’t great, it was blowing a gale and raining too, so I unpacked and relaxed for a few hours. After dinner it had cleared up a bit so I went for a stroll down to the end of the peninsula, overlooking Ramsay Island, to enjoy the views.

Saturday: I woke up early with the sunshine. The storm clouds had moved off and it promised to be a bright and breezy day. So it was Radio 4 and coffee whilst I consulted the map and decided where I would adventure! In the end I decided to head straight down to the coastal path at St Justinians (about 10 minutes walk from my cottage) and turned left, with the sea on my right, and headed along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path.

The storm the night before had left the sea between the mainland and Ramsay Island, with its rocks (called The Bitches) and dangerous currents, a rolling seething mess: very dramatic. I walked all the way around to Caerfei Bay where I stopped to eat lunch and enjoy the views. From there it is a short walk into St David’s itself.

St David’s is really pretty, and the smallest City in the UK (even smaller than Durham!) It has lots of lovely coffee shops and plenty of vegan friendly shops too. I spent the afternoon with a bit more walking and a bit of exploring of St Davids, as well as stopping to drink coffee and read the newspapers, as well as writing a postcard for the Parentals.

Sunday: I’m lucky to have another glorious day on Sunday, and the wind has dropped too. I spent a lazy morning watching the news and eating breakfast before heading out to walk at about 9.15am. I traced the same steps as I did the previous day, but this time turn right, with the sea on my left, and walked up the coast past St Justinian’s lifeboat station towards Whitesands, which is the big sandy bay popular with families and surfers!

I walked from Whitesands into St David’s and had lunch at the Farmer’s Arms pub, whose food wasn’t as good as the menu promised, sadly. I then walked through St David’s to St Non’s on the other side of the peninsula and followed the coastal path back to St Justinian’s and Shearers’ Loft. It works out about 14 miles (same as Saturday), but the walking is just so wonderful, it’s difficult to head home! 🙂

Monday: Another fantastic day with lots of sunshine. I walked into St David’s and caught the 9.50 bus to Newgale, which is down the coast from St Davids. The first section of the walk from Newgale to Solva is hard work with lots of climbing up and down the cliffs, and in the sunshine it’s really hard going! I made it to Solva by lunch time and enjoyed sitting on a bench in the harbour to eat my lunch and people watch!

The second section from Solva to St Davids is much easier, with lovely wide grassy paths to follow and magnificent views of the coast. The reward for reaching St David’s is coffee and reading the newspaper in The Sound Cafe before the final stretch back to Shearers’ Loft. Another 14 miles under the belt, but the downside was that I had managed to hurt my right foot by doing too many miles in the last few days. Nothing too bad, but I know I need to be a bit more gentle with myself for the rest of my holiday!

Tuesday: The weather forecast for Tuesday was that it wasn’t going to be great, and as I also had a sore foot I decided that I was going to have an easy day. As it turned out, after a short-lived sea fret, the weather was fine and sunny. After walking into St Davids I spent the morning mooching about drinking coffee, reading newspapers, writing postcards and exploring the shops. I do get a walk in later along the lanes around my cottage so it’s not a completely lazy day.

Wednesday: Another good day weather-wise: early drizzle gives way to sunshine. I drive up the coast to Abereiddi and walk up the coast to Trwyn via Porthgain, and back again. It’s a really lovely section of the coast. Abereiddi is a popular spot for coasteering and it’s good fun to watch, although I’m not sure I fancy it myself!

Coffee and newspapers in the afternoon, and then after dinner I have another walk in the lanes before heading to bed. I can’t get enough of the magnificent coastal views!

Thursday: For some reason I slept really badly and wake at 4am on Thursday morning, and cannot get back to sleep. The weather on Thursday, my last full day, was forecast to break at lunchtime with storms heading in so I had a morning walk along the coast nearby the cottage. I’m back by lunchtime just as the weather breaks with rain and very high wind.

I spent a wet and windy afternoon in St Davids and didn’t manage to get an evening walk in because the weather outside was so dreadful. I swear it sounded like the cottage was going to blow away and the rain hammered on the windows and roof with such force! I was so lucky with the weather during the week, it would have been a disappointing holiday if the weather had been like this all week!

Friday: I left the cottage early on Friday morning in an attempt to get off the country roads before they get too busy. It worked and it takes about 7 hours to drive home. The wind and rain stormed all Thursday night, and it was pretty nasty driving for the first couple of hours out of Wales.

The whole week was pretty fantastic. I really enjoyed Pembrokeshire, and if you like walking I would definitely recommend it as a great location for a walking holiday. The coastal walking is spectacular, and the plentiful and cheap buses means that you barely need to use your car to explore the coast: linear walks are really easy to arrange. Every inch of the coastline seems to over fantastic views! I don’t think there was a section that I walked that I didn’t thoroughly enjoy.

It was one of those holidays where you are very sad to be going home, which always signals a fantastic holiday in my opinion.

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One Response to “More Wales!”

  1. John July 22, 2012 at 8:13 pm #

    Nice pictures!

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