Tag Archives: pembrokeshire

Pembrokeshire

9 Sep

It was my 33rd birthday on the 5th September.

I absolutely refuse to work on my birthday, and usually go on holiday. This year I decided to return to Pembrokeshire after having such an amazing time there in June. I booked into the gorgeous Rock Cottage for a week and on Thursday 30th August set off for Hay on Wye.

I decided to break my journey down to St Davids with one night in Hay in order to mooch around all the book shops. I was staying in vegetarian B&B Trericket Mill, which turned out to be brilliant. Hay was a little disappointing though. I think I have been spoilt by Barter Books in Alnwick, which is one of my favourite places, and I imagined that the book shops in Hay would be equally amazing, but sadly they weren’t: they were small and cramped and crowded and seemed to have no logic to the layout – I couldn’t find anything. Also, besides the great B&B, the vegan options in the area were really disappointing, and the coffee shops were rubbish (again, I’ve been spoilt by having Flat White Durham on my doorstep).

So, Hay was not so good, but after a lush breakfast at the B&B on Friday morning I set off for St Davids!

I got there at about lunch time so dropped into St Davids to buy some food and then headed over to Rock Cottage. Rock Cottage was absolutely perfect – even better than Shearers’ Loft where I stayed in June. Rock Cottage is a bit closer to St David’s with great views down to the Cathedral from the living room windows. After settling in and unpacking that afternoon I cycled into St Davids and then over to Whitesands, and back. Then after dinner that evening I walked down to Porth Clais.
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Saturday morning I walk over to Whitesands and along to St David’s Head and then up on to the top of Carn Llidi for fantastic views of the peninsula. From there I walk down to St David’s for a coffee, and then back to Rock Cottage.
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Sunday morning the weather is misty and a bit drizzly. I walked from Rock Cottage down to St Justinians and then around the head of the peninsula to St Nons and then into St Davids. Later on that evening I have another shorter walk down to Porth Clais.
On Monday I drove over to Abereiddi and walked to Penberry and back. It’s quite hard walking – lots of up and down, and quite overgrown (clearly a less popular part of the coastal path). At the Blue Lagoon at Abereiddi they were preparing it for the Red Bull Cliff Diving Championship at the weekend, which quite frankly looked terrifying. That afternoon I cycled down to Whitesands and have a walk on the beach before having a coffee and cycling back.
I walked down to Porth Clais on Tuesday and made my way down the coast to Solva. I got there about lunch time and catch the bus back from Solva into St Davids where I picked up lunch before walking back to the cottage. The morning is grey and rainy, but the sun comes out after lunch. So after lunch I walked back into St David’s and have a wander about the shops and then take a look around St David’s cathedral before walking back to Rock Cottage. That evening I went down to Whitesands to watch the stunning sunset.
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Wednesday was my birthday! I walked into St David’s and had a lazy morning wandering around the shops and having a coffee. I then headed back to the cottage for lunch, and for an afternoon walk down to Whitesands and along the coastal path to St Justinians. That evening I returned to Whitesands to watch the sunset again.
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Thursday was my last full day sadly. I drove over to Whitesands and leave the car there to walk the coastal path towards Abereiddi. I make it into a loop walk and come back to Whitesands inland using field paths – they are not well trodden at all and I got brambled and nettled to death, that was a bad decision! I got back about lunch time and drove back to the cottage for lunch. After lunch I walked into St David’s for a cherry sorbet as a treat, and then that evening I had a walk along the lanes around the cottage, stealing blackberries from the hedgerows.
Friday was a 4am wake up call to get me on the road early. I got back to Hartlepool by lunchtime. Gutted to be home as I had an absolutely magnificent holiday.
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More Wales!

16 Jun

Week 2 – St David’s, Pembrokeshire

Friday: It’s hard to believe that such a wonderful week started with such shocking weather. The journey from Liverpool to St David’s, which was meant to take 4 hours, ended up taking 6 because the weather meant the roads were just awful. My journey took me through Bala and Machynlleth (again) before heading down the coast. The rain was absolutely torrential, and as it turned out, resulted in floods for the Machynlleth area! I was so pleased that we had been staying there the weekend before this happened!

I arrived at St David’s around 4pm Shearers’ Loft, which was my base whilst I was staying there, and was absolutely fabulous! The weather wasn’t great, it was blowing a gale and raining too, so I unpacked and relaxed for a few hours. After dinner it had cleared up a bit so I went for a stroll down to the end of the peninsula, overlooking Ramsay Island, to enjoy the views.

Saturday: I woke up early with the sunshine. The storm clouds had moved off and it promised to be a bright and breezy day. So it was Radio 4 and coffee whilst I consulted the map and decided where I would adventure! In the end I decided to head straight down to the coastal path at St Justinians (about 10 minutes walk from my cottage) and turned left, with the sea on my right, and headed along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path.

The storm the night before had left the sea between the mainland and Ramsay Island, with its rocks (called The Bitches) and dangerous currents, a rolling seething mess: very dramatic. I walked all the way around to Caerfei Bay where I stopped to eat lunch and enjoy the views. From there it is a short walk into St David’s itself.

St David’s is really pretty, and the smallest City in the UK (even smaller than Durham!) It has lots of lovely coffee shops and plenty of vegan friendly shops too. I spent the afternoon with a bit more walking and a bit of exploring of St Davids, as well as stopping to drink coffee and read the newspapers, as well as writing a postcard for the Parentals.

Sunday: I’m lucky to have another glorious day on Sunday, and the wind has dropped too. I spent a lazy morning watching the news and eating breakfast before heading out to walk at about 9.15am. I traced the same steps as I did the previous day, but this time turn right, with the sea on my left, and walked up the coast past St Justinian’s lifeboat station towards Whitesands, which is the big sandy bay popular with families and surfers!

I walked from Whitesands into St David’s and had lunch at the Farmer’s Arms pub, whose food wasn’t as good as the menu promised, sadly. I then walked through St David’s to St Non’s on the other side of the peninsula and followed the coastal path back to St Justinian’s and Shearers’ Loft. It works out about 14 miles (same as Saturday), but the walking is just so wonderful, it’s difficult to head home! 🙂

Monday: Another fantastic day with lots of sunshine. I walked into St David’s and caught the 9.50 bus to Newgale, which is down the coast from St Davids. The first section of the walk from Newgale to Solva is hard work with lots of climbing up and down the cliffs, and in the sunshine it’s really hard going! I made it to Solva by lunch time and enjoyed sitting on a bench in the harbour to eat my lunch and people watch!

The second section from Solva to St Davids is much easier, with lovely wide grassy paths to follow and magnificent views of the coast. The reward for reaching St David’s is coffee and reading the newspaper in The Sound Cafe before the final stretch back to Shearers’ Loft. Another 14 miles under the belt, but the downside was that I had managed to hurt my right foot by doing too many miles in the last few days. Nothing too bad, but I know I need to be a bit more gentle with myself for the rest of my holiday!

Tuesday: The weather forecast for Tuesday was that it wasn’t going to be great, and as I also had a sore foot I decided that I was going to have an easy day. As it turned out, after a short-lived sea fret, the weather was fine and sunny. After walking into St Davids I spent the morning mooching about drinking coffee, reading newspapers, writing postcards and exploring the shops. I do get a walk in later along the lanes around my cottage so it’s not a completely lazy day.

Wednesday: Another good day weather-wise: early drizzle gives way to sunshine. I drive up the coast to Abereiddi and walk up the coast to Trwyn via Porthgain, and back again. It’s a really lovely section of the coast. Abereiddi is a popular spot for coasteering and it’s good fun to watch, although I’m not sure I fancy it myself!

Coffee and newspapers in the afternoon, and then after dinner I have another walk in the lanes before heading to bed. I can’t get enough of the magnificent coastal views!

Thursday: For some reason I slept really badly and wake at 4am on Thursday morning, and cannot get back to sleep. The weather on Thursday, my last full day, was forecast to break at lunchtime with storms heading in so I had a morning walk along the coast nearby the cottage. I’m back by lunchtime just as the weather breaks with rain and very high wind.

I spent a wet and windy afternoon in St Davids and didn’t manage to get an evening walk in because the weather outside was so dreadful. I swear it sounded like the cottage was going to blow away and the rain hammered on the windows and roof with such force! I was so lucky with the weather during the week, it would have been a disappointing holiday if the weather had been like this all week!

Friday: I left the cottage early on Friday morning in an attempt to get off the country roads before they get too busy. It worked and it takes about 7 hours to drive home. The wind and rain stormed all Thursday night, and it was pretty nasty driving for the first couple of hours out of Wales.

The whole week was pretty fantastic. I really enjoyed Pembrokeshire, and if you like walking I would definitely recommend it as a great location for a walking holiday. The coastal walking is spectacular, and the plentiful and cheap buses means that you barely need to use your car to explore the coast: linear walks are really easy to arrange. Every inch of the coastline seems to over fantastic views! I don’t think there was a section that I walked that I didn’t thoroughly enjoy.

It was one of those holidays where you are very sad to be going home, which always signals a fantastic holiday in my opinion.